This rectangular piece has been assembled more or less symmetrically, from various silk materials, including plain woven silk, damask on plain weave, twill damask, polychrome woven silk, clamp-resist dyed plain weave, and embroideries. Stein considered it a votive patchwork; others have since suggested that it might be a kasaya (a Buddhist monastic robe made from patches of cloth). However, the size of this patchwork is smaller than a kasaya for an average adult. It was probably used for wrapping scrolls, or perhaps as a bed cover. Some of the pieces in the patchwork probably date from the early to the high Tang: these include the twill damask with small rosettes on stripes, the samite with small rosettes on stripes and the samite with small floral roundels. The embroidered and clamp-resist dyed pieces, on the other hand, are more likely to date to the mid- Tang and late Tang. Therefore, this patchwork, as a completed piece, can be dated to the mid- to late Tang period. An example of a kasaya with gold couching embroidery on red gauze, together with a list recording kasayas of this type, was excavated at the Famen Temple, Fufeng, Shanxi. A patchwork used for wrapping sutras, jingjin, was recorded in a list, dated 958, of property owned by a temple (S.1776). Weave structures: Border:Silk plain weave with floral pattern, clamp resist dyed Warp: silk, untwisted, single, 44 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, 26 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 1. Jin in twill with medallions Warp: silk, untwisted, white, brown, blue and yellow etc., 37 groups/cm; Inner weft: silk, untwisted, single, brown, 14 lats/cm; Binding weft: silk, untwisted, single, brown, 14 lats/cm. Weave structure: 2/1Z warp faced compound twill. Pattern repeat: 7.5cm in warp direction and 7.5cm in weft direction. 2. Jin in twill with medallions Warp: silk, untwisted, white, brown, blue and yellow etc., 42 groups/cm; Inner weft: silk, untwisted, single, brown, 18 lats/cm; Binding weft: silk, untwisted, single, brown, 18 lats/cm. Weave structure: 2/1Z warp faced compound twill. Pattern repeat: 3.2cm in warp direction and 6.5cm in weft direction. 3. Jin in twill Inner warp: silk, untwisted, red, green, white and blue etc., 24 ends/cm; Binding warp: silk, untwisted, white, blue and greed etc., 24 ends/cm; Inner warp: Binding warp=1:2; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, light brown, 36 lats/cm. Weave structure: floats for pattern on 5/1S for ground. 4. Jin in twill Warp: silk, untwisted, red, green, white and blue etc., 46 groups/cm; Inner weft: silk, untwisted, single, light brown, 12 lats/cm; Binding weft: silk, untwisted, single, light brown, 12 lats/cm. Weave structure: 2/1Z warp faced compound twill. 5. double weave Warp A: silk, untwisted, greenish blue, 36 ends/cm; Warp B: silk, untwisted, white, 36 ends/cm; Warp A:WarpB=2:2; Weft A: silk, untwisted, greenish blue, 26 lats/cm; Weft B: silk, untwisted, white, 26 lats/cm. Weft A:Weft B=2:2; Weave structure: Warp A and Weft A woven in weft rib weave, Warp B and Weft B woven in 1/3S twill. 6. Jin in twill with medallions Warp: silk, untwisted, red, brown, dark blue and greyish blue etc., 44 groups/cm; Inner weft: silk, untwisted, single, beige, 13 lats/cm; Binding weft: silk, untwisted, single, beige, 13 lats/cm. Weave structure: 2/1Z warp faced compound twill. Pattern repeat: 3.5cm in warp direction. 7. Jin in twill with medallions Warp: silk, untwisted, red, white and green etc., 48 groups/cm; Inner weft: silk, untwisted, single, beige, 12 lats/cm; Binding weft: silk, untwisted, single, beige, 12 lats/cm. Weave structure: 2/1Z warp faced compound twill. Pattern repeat: 4.0cm in warp direction. 8. Jin in twill with medallions Warp: silk, untwisted, blue, white and red etc., 46 groups/cm; Inner weft: silk, untwisted, single, beige, 14 lats/cm; Binding weft: silk, untwisted, single, beige, 14 lats/cm. Weave structure: 2/1Z warp faced compound twill. Pattern repeat: 11.5cm in weft direction. 9. Jin in twill with zigzags Warp: silk, untwisted, yellow, blue, brown and white etc., 56 groups/cm; Inner weft: silk, untwisted, single, beige, 14 lats/cm; Binding weft: silk, untwisted, single, beige, 14 lats/cm. Weave structure: 2/1S warp faced compound twill. Pattern repeat: 0.8cm in warp direction. 10. Embroidery with floral pattern 10.a Gauze Warp: silk, untwisted, single, white; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, white. Weave structure: 4-end complex gauze. 10.b Silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, white, 62 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, white, 36 lats/cm; Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. Embroidery: Threads: silk, S twisted; Colours: red, orange, white, dark blue, blue, green, dark brown and purple etc. Stitch: satin stitches etc. 11. Embroidery with floral pattern 11.a Gauze Warp: silk, untwisted, single, red; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, red. Weave structure: 4-end complex gauze. 11.b Silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, red, c.61 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, red, c.39 lats/cm; Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. Embroidery: Threads: silk, S twisted; Colours: white, blue, light green and yellow etc. Stitch: satin stitches etc. 13. Silk plain weave with floral pattern, clamp resist dyed Warp: silk, untwisted, single, 21 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, 17 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. Pattern repeat: 9.0cm in both warp and weft direction. 14. Silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, white, 60 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, white, 40 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 15. Silk plain weave with floral pattern, clamp resist dyed Same as Border 16. Damask on plain weave with Diamonds Warp: silk, untwisted, single, blue, 42 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, blue, 18 lats/cm. Weave structure: 3/1S twill for pattern on 1/1 plain weave for foundation. 17. Damask on plain weave with rosettes Warp: silk, untwisted, single, red, 53 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, red, 18 lats/cm. Weave structure: 4-2 patterning weave for pattern on 1/1 plain weave for foundation. 18. Silk plain weave Warp: silk, Z twisted, single, red, 26 ends/cm; Weft: silk, Z twisted, single, red, 17 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 19. Silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, yellow, 42 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, yellow, 24 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 20. Silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, green, c.68 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, green, c.37 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 21. Silk plain weave Warp: silk, untwisted, single, purple, c.35 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, purple, c.29 lats/cm. Weave structure: 1/1 plain weave. 22. Twill damask with checked pattern Warp: silk, untwisted, single, light brown, 46 ends/cm; Weft: silk, untwisted, single, light brown, 31 lats/cm. Weave structure: 3/1 broken twill.

An00011353 002 l

People

Found, Excavated, Collected By
Stein, Marc Aurel

Place

Found In
Qian Fo Dong

Time

Acquired In
1917
Made
8thC(late)-9thC
Period/Culture
Tang dynasty

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